Months before Christmas, my daughter Heather asked me if we would like to have dinner at BLUDORN on December 23 before attending the TUTS Christmas play at the Hobby Center. She extolled the virtues of BLUDORN. I was intrigued, and so, of course, I said yes. I put the name and date on my calendar and didn’t think about it again until a few weeks before the event. Then I began wondering about BLUDORN, so my fingers started walking and typing—searching.
Chef Aaron Bludorn
I learned that BLUDORN is the last name of the chef-owner, Aaron Bludorn. He was born and raised in the Pacific Northwest and fell in love with cooking at an early age. Attending the CIA in Hyde Park, he worked in the Wine Country in California under Michelin-starred Chef Douglas Keene, and he was eventually drawn to opportunities in NYC, becoming the executive chef for Café Boulud five years after his arrival.
Chef Aaron Bludorn roots himself in the Gulf serving New American, French-inspired fare with passion and integrity. The menus are comprised of seasonally rotating dishes, global wines, and handcrafted cocktails served in this neighborhood landmark.
BLUDORN WEBSITE
Reviews of Houston’s BLUDORN were unanimous. EXCEPTIONAL! DELICIOUS! OUTSTANDING! STELLAR! But — pricey. No separate checks. I downloaded BLUDORN’S menu and began dreaming foodie dreams.
BLUDORN
On the cold, wet December night when we walked into BLUDORN, I worried we were underdressed — needlessly worried. There is no dress code here. With food that deserves white tablecloths, high heels, suits, and ties, Chef Aaron Bludorn has different ideas. He wants his guests to feel comfortable. Welcome. Casual — but not sloppy attire is welcome. The décor at BLUDORN is non-intimidating too. It is modern. Sleek. Comfortable.
Once seated, my daughter told our server that we needed to leave the restaurant by 7 pm to attend an original TUTS production, The Ugly Xmas Sweater Musical, which also explained our attire. The BLUDORN employee smiled and promised that it wouldn’t be a problem. Looking at the seven of us seated around the table, I had my doubts — the restaurant was packed.
We began with drinks and wine, discovering a new (to us) Pinot Noir – Averaen, from the Willamette Valley. I placed my martini on the table and sipped the wine — it was exceptional.
BLUDORN’S Appetizers
For an appetizer, Michael and I shared an order of oysters. We had the choice of ordering just one or as many as we could eat — we could never eat just one. Along with the ubiquitous raw oysters, BLUDORN offers them prepared three ways: fried with capered gribiche sauce, smoked, and roasted with watercress, bacon, and parmesan cheese. We ordered two of each type that are cooked.
BLUDORN’S prices for oysters are in line with every restaurant we have been to this year—from humble Gilhooley’s in San Leon to the Grand Galvez in Galveston — and they were delicious. I liked all of them and couldn’t decide which I preferred, although the smoked oyster with chilis and lemongrass led by an edge.
Oysters three ways — left to right — smoked, baked, and fried.
My two grandsons surprised me by ordering steak tartare and risotto with truffles. When did they develop such a sophisticated palette? They were kind enough to let me taste the tartare — well, I told them they had to. The tartare was perfect — but the boys protected their truffled risotto like it was a pot of gold, so I haven’t a personal opinion, but they pronounced it, “Really good!”.
BLUDORN’S Entrées
BLUDORN’S entrees are varied enough to appeal to the pescatarian, vegetarian, or meat eater. The young tartare-truffle eaters in our group both opted for a dry-aged beef burger with potato wedges, while their father ordered a Christmas special — an indulgent beef Wellington with wild mushroom, black truffle, potato puree, and sauce perigourdine. Michael chose a bone-in Niman Ranch Pork Chop accented with daikon radish, carrots, and hoisin with black garlic. Of course, no one offered me a taste of anything.
Neiman Ranch Pork Chop
My sister, daughter, and I leaned toward fruits de mer. My daughter chose cioppino, which contained a bounty of assorted seafood fresh from the Gulf of Mexico, while my sister and I selected pecan-crusted flounder. I almost forgot about the flounder — which was perfectly cooked — once I tasted the finely shredded Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced red onion, and chunky winter squash medley tucked underneath. The vegetables were divine. I could have eaten an entire plate of that melange of veggies the way they were prepared that night and been content. Perhaps I am a vegetarian at heart.
Pecan Crusted Flounder
And Dessert!
While devouring our entrees, diners at the table next to us were served a flaming-baked Alaska. My daughter didn’t have to ask any of us twice. A resounding YES was emanating from our table. We wanted our own — to share, of course.
Noticing that the ice cream portion was not softened by the flaming meringue when everyone at the next table decided to cut it with a spoon (a spoon barely made a dent), we decided to discreetly save our knives as the table was cleared. It turned out to be a brilliant move! And the Baked Alaska melted in our mouths. The meringue was ethereal. The ice cream — cold and creamy. The thin slice of cake on the bottom — tender.
Flaming Baked Alaska
The service was astoundingly efficient. The entire staff operated like a well-oiled machine, and as a result, we were able to finish our three-course feast, pay the bill, and leave BLUDORN by 7 pm! I was in awe.
It was bare minutes before the valet handed us our car keys, and we were off to the city lights of downtown Houston, arriving at the theater with plenty of time to spare, most of us decked out in our ugly Christmas sweaters.
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