The aroma of wood and smoke and grilled meat tickles my nose and teases my taste buds as we exit the car and make our way to the entrance of Bryans on 290 in Johnson City. On most Tuesday nights, we would be partaking in a wine and food pairing extravaganza, but tonight’s reservations are during the month of December. Everything is different in December.

Each evening at dusk, during the Holiday Season, the world arrives at the doorstep of Johnson City to see this tiny town in all of its bright and glittering, twinkling glory. To feed these multitudes, Chef Bryan is forced to forgo his lovely multi-course extravaganza for the next thirty days. For us, this isn’t a problem; there is always January for the perfect pairing, and Chef Bryan’s regular menu is enticing.

And, of course, the Christmas lights are magical

Being Flexible

Entering the restaurant, standing behind the long bar we see the owner and culinary creative force behind BRYANS on 290, Chef Bryan Gillenwater. He is shaking his head. “Everyone is coming for dinner at 6 o’clock,” he says.

6 pm is the exact time of our reservation, and we are fifteen minutes early. Sensing it would benefit both Chef Bryan as well as Michael and me, I offer to delay our dinner hour until 7 pm. His smile is grateful ascent, and we are off to check out this sparkling haven of a Texas Hill Country town in early twilight while everyone else eats their dinner, waiting for total darkness to descend.

Dinner at Bryans on 290

When the appointed hour of dinner arrives, we are shown to a table that is tucked away in a cozy corner of the front dining room. The location couldn’t be more perfect.

While I peruse the food selections, Michael scans the wine list; handing it to me, he says, “You choose.”

Decisions

Wine

I have a few problems and lots of decisions. Most of the vineyards and wines on the list I do not recognize; a very few are Texas wines but most of them are imported — the majority of the wines I see are French. We had wonderful French wines when we were in England — reasonably priced and delicious. But the French wines I have purchased in the US from various retailers do not equal the quality of those we had while dining across the pond. I dither.

Another problem comes from the fact that what Michael and I want to eat is totally opposite and trying to find a perfect wine that will suit both entrées is not easy. Finally, after much searching, I settle on a Spanish rosado that is not readily available in Texas, Perla, a Grenache-based rosé-type wine from the Zaragosa region of Spain. I know we will both like this wine because we love light, dry rosés and the Perla should work with the flavors of what we plan to order.

Starters

Out of the eight starter choices available, Michael’s selection is bone marrow — I’m tempted to follow suit but hesitate. Instead, I choose Brussels sprouts. If I see these green orbs on the menu, I have to try them. Each chef prepares Brussels sprouts differently, and they are always good.

Bone Marrow Memories

Bone marrow — I hesitated for a reason.

I first discovered bone marrow when I was so young that I don’t even remember my age. The only steak my mother served at our house when I was a child was round steak, pounded until tender, well-seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged in flour, and fried. My preference was always the piece with the round bone in the center, and the center of that round bone was my favorite part. I had no idea what it was called back then; I just knew I liked it.

As an adult I have eaten bone marrow in various restaurants. Some of it was delicious, other preparations were not so great, and some bone marrow I have eaten on the West Coast could even be considered yucky. I’m glad Michael ordered this dish — that way, I can tuck away what I discover for future reference when choosing an appetizer at BRYANS.

Three Courses

Appetizers

The crispy Brussels sprouts with smoked pork belly and a hot chili glaze are delicious, and the chunks of pork belly are a great accompaniment. When I’m not looking, Michael keeps stealing a few from my plate. In return, he offers me a single bite of the grilled bone marrow with chimichurri that he ordered. The entire bite is both a rustic and sophisticated culinary delight — crisp bread, savory, smoky bone marrow, and tangy chimichurri. Michael doesn’t offer me more. He eats the whole thing all by himself!

Entrées

Our entrées arrive, and from his plate of smoked duck breast with varied accompaniments, Michael only offers me a taste of one Llano mushroom. sometimes he can be so generous. The Texas grown champignon is good. I make a note to discover more about these locally grown fungi from this small Texas town.

I’m less generous than Michael, because I do not offer him any of my grill-seared jumbo sea scallops sitting atop a pool of roasted corn risotto. The scallops are flawless — sweet and tender — and an excellent foil for the well-seasoned risotto. My wine of choice is an absolutely perfect pairing.

Dessert

Michael and I usually share a dessert, but tonight bread pudding sings the siren’s song to him, and I can’t say no to a pecan bar with a caramel drizzle. We add coffee to our order, knowing that it might mean a wakeful night at 2 am, but we don’t care. And this coffee is worth any sleep we lose. It is deep and dark and rich and smooth — I want this coffee in my cup tomorrow morning.

Michael hordes his bread pudding, and I love my pecan bar. Not too sweet, not too rich, it is the perfect ending to a wonderful meal.

BRYANS on 290 Information

Website: https://www.bryanson290.com/

Address: 300 E. Main St., Johnson City, Texas

Hours: 5 pm to 9 pm Tuesday to Wednesday, 11 am to 9 pm Thursday to Saturday

Phone: 830-868-2424

Reservations may be made on their website: https://www.sevenrooms.com/reservations/bryanson290