Fort Davis National Historic Site

Charlotte’s Travel Journal, 4 Days after Retirement, March 8, 2004 

While I do my thing, Michael is off, exploring on his own. So far, the old building I love best in the Fort Davis National Historic Site is the hospital, or maybe what I love is the hospital’s location—way at the back, almost face to face with a myriad of rock columns that climb up the side of the mountain.  Continuing on, I soon discover a wonderful niche on this frontier outpost — a porch swing hanging from the roof of one of the officer’s quarters. I sit. It is just like Grandma’s. The sun is warm on my skin. I close my eyes, and I make believe while listening to the audio program of the evening Retreat. Voices. Commands. Bugles.  When finally I force myself back to the present, I continue my exploration. Leisurely. Taking my time.  Perhaps this is what retirement is all about.

2018 – In Search of Sustenance

After our early afternoon adventure, Michael naps while I Google places for us to have dinner before heading out to Fort Davis National Historic Site for our evening history lesson. There are seven eateries in town, but only two are open on Saturday night. One is upscale and requires reservations and gets mixed reviews—what’s new?  The other is Tex Mex which I think is wonderful, but today Michael’s stomach isn’t so sure. However, they also serve American food. I guess my decision is made for me.

Not wanting to rush our dinner hour but still be on time for our evening history lesson, we arrive at Cueva De Leon five minutes before they open.  There is already a long line. Avoiding the mud puddles from last night’s rain, we take our place at the tail end of the queue. When at last we are in the restaurant everyone heads immediately to a steam table full of every kind of Tex Mex food imaginable—forget about finding a table first—all of these people have only one thing on their minds.

When I finally find an employee to ask if we can order from the menu, the place is full, and the answer is NO.  Our exit is immediate. We rush headlong toward Alpine—a half hour away—to find the fastest of fast food restaurants.

A Cheeseburger in Paradise

The drive south is an unexpected treat. I love this land, and the road we take–the only road to take–is a curving canyon through soaring columns of rocks stacked side by side–an impenetrable wall. A place to hide?  Once again Michael and I remark to each other—SPECTACULAR!

Sitting in the car at the Sonic Drive-in in Alpine, munching on a bacon cheeseburger, I tell Michael that I think this is the best food I have had in the last 48 hours.

A Sunset Tour

Away from the college town of Alpine and back in the heart of the old west in Fort Davis National Historic Site we sit on low benches waiting our turn for the assigned tour at 7:10 pm. The volunteers from the Friends of Fort Davis are in charge and have apparently done this before. Everything is orchestrated and timed to the T, running like a well-oiled machine.

Our guide for the evening, with an unlit lantern in hand, tells us we will be walking almost the entire length and breadth of the old fort, listening in on various individuals as they go about ending their day way back when.  I now understand the timing of the tours and the necessity to keep size to a minimum.

A Fly on the Wall

I am in a time warp in an ancient land in the old west, standing in the heart of what was Apache and Comanche country. The Indian Wars are behind us, the Civil War is at an end. Finally, I am that proverbial fly on the wall as we listen in on a group of soldiers entertaining themselves with cards and music–harmonica–at the end of their day. The old soldiers count the days until they can muster out of the army while the young one’s gamble to trade assigned duties.

We run into a drunk soldier singing his lungs out under the flagpole and watch as the post commander and his family entertain other officers and their wives. There is even a well-behaved young child in the mix.

Being a fly on the wall reminds me that the more things have changed, the more they stay the same, except that here young boys play games outside on the wide expanse of grass and adults gather on porches in the twilight to chat and sing songs.  Women play bridge and the officer’s cooks offer us cookies and cider.

Friends of Fort Davis

The Friends of Fort Davis National Historic Site, established in 1983 is a non-profit 501(c)(3) organization supporting activities approved by the National Park Service for which federal funds are not available.

It is comprised of a caring, historic-minded group of citizens working in partnership with the National Park Service. Their goal is to raise money to improve the facilities, fund furnishings, and displays, and support living history events that tell the story of the role that the Fort Davis Army Post played in the settling of the American western frontier.

For only $25 a year pp Michael and I joined. How could we not?