It is a short 40-minute drive from Fredericksburg to Mason—we have been this way before and pass by old friends, i.e., Hill Top Café, and numerous other memories. Arriving at our destination, Michael tries feeling his way to the top of the hill where old Fort Mason once perched, and as a result, we find ourselves in the charming downtown area.
Mason County Courthouse
We are in the middle of a square of buildings surrounding one of the most charming, pristine courthouses in Texas —once. In February of this year, the old courthouse was the victim of arson, and now only a burned-out shell remains. It breaks my heart when I remember what was, and the first time I saw Mason County courthouse one beautiful Sunday morning in autumn. There were two men in bright orange jumpsuits busy raking leaves. I commented to Michael about their strange attire, and he informed me that they were probably inmates of the local prison. Plausible — but true? I still wonder. Now the inmates are gone, and so is the courthouse.
Fort Mason
Focusing our attention on the matter at hand, Michael makes a few turns, follows a detour, and we climb our way to the top of the small township of Mason, where all that remains of the fort once standing here is a reproduction of the officer’s quarters.
Michael parks our car in the minuscule parking area in front of the stone structure, and we begin our exploration. The officer’s quarters are built in a dog trot style, with a wide front porch spanning the length of the building and a large breezeway running through the middle.
I am drawn through this long opening to the back deck and the view beyond, but am distracted by small openings on either side of me. I step into one phone-booth-sized niche and find myself surrounded by scarred plastic as I gaze at a vignette of the past—an officer-soldier sitting at his desk writing a report or perhaps a letter home. Across the breezeway is a bedroom, a dining room, and further down a tiny museum that opens my eyes to the history of Fort Mason.
The number of generals who were commanders here during the relatively short time the fort was in existence really surprises me. Many of the names I read are famous ones. Robert E. Lee was a commander here. It was his last command before being called back to Washington, where he was offered command of all Union forces. Even though he was always opposed to session, loyalty to his family and ties to his home state of Virginia caused him to reluctantly decline leading the Union in a war against the south. Other officers from the southern states serving in the US Military had very different stories — equally sad.
History
The story of Fort Mason from inception to abandonment is almost akin to the story of a revolving door. Being established in July of 1851 as a front-line defense against Kiowa, Lipan Apache, and Comanche, their doors closed three years later in January 1854. It was reoccupied again in 1856 and evacuated by federal troops in March 1861. During the Civil War, it was reoccupied and closed once again in 1869. With the town of Mason growing, its citizens used materials from the abandoned fort when building their own homes, leaving only a pile of rubble in their wake.
Restoration of the fort began in 1975. Today, the historic fort belongs to the Mason County Historical Society.
As we leave this hilltop perch, I notice a sign on a long, low-slung home across from us — Casa Guadalupe Guesthouse. I make a note for future trips.
Sandstone Cellars
It has been years since we last visited Sandstone Cellars; however, we pass the tasting room on our way out of town, so we make a U-turn and step out of the car once again. I remind myself dawdling is allowed on this trip — plus, it is relatively early. Unfortunately, there seems to be no one home as we approach the front door of the small, quaint building. So, we walk next door to the wine bar to relax with a glass of wine on their welcoming front porch. Foiled again—or maybe rescued. We are led back to the tasting room; the winery attendant was merely helping out where needed.
A tasting of four wines for five dollars sounds like a bargain to me, and also just the right amount of wine, considering we had both just downed a bottle of beer less than two-and-a-half hours ago. There are two red blends, both good but very different — different years, slightly different percentages of the same grapes. We also sample a port wine that Michael loves and an apple cider dessert wine — nothing like the Sidra (hard apple cider) we had in Oviedo, Spain. I like this one much better and buy a bottle for my non-wine drinking friends to try.
Bill Worrell, Artist
Before leaving, I must inspect the beautiful artwork of Bill Worrell that is available for purchase at the winery. Recently deceased from a five-year battle with cancer, a canoe trip down the Pecos River over forty years ago influenced the primitive art turned to brass sculptures before us. I learn that Worrell and two paddling companions sought shelter from an approaching storm under a rocky overhang along the Pecos, where he got his first glimpse of ancient rock art. Worrell said he had to make it his own.
Worrell’s paintings and sculptures, featured in galleries across the Southwest, portray his view of the ancient artwork that inspired him. His bronze statue, The Maker of Peace, stands at the top of a ridge at Seminole Canyon State Park and Historic Site west of Del Rio. A beautiful life-sized statue also stands in front of Sandstone Cellars.
I know there is a story here, but it is almost closing time, so I hesitate to ask. Instead, we take our wine and stash it in the trunk of the car. Michael points or chariot north toward the town located in the heart of Texas—Brady.
Fort Mason Information
- Address
- 314 Spruce St #302, Mason, TX 76856
- Hours
- Open 7 days a week until 10 pm
- History
Sandstone Cellars
- Location
- 211 San Antonio Street, Mason, Texas – 325-347- 9463
- Hours
- Thursday – Saturday, Noon – 10 pm
- Sunday – Noon – 3 pm
- Website
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