The Oyster Capital of Texas

If someone had asked me at the beginning of January where the Oyster Capital of Texas was — I would have shrugged my shoulders in ignorance, with no opinion of my own. But as we travel north along Hwy 146 for the third time in three weeks, today toward Gilhooley’s Restaurant and Oyster Bar, I know what my answer would be. San Leon.

If ever there was an oyster-centric community, San Leon is it. Oyster shells are piled higher than I am tall beside seafood restaurants and oyster processing companies. We have visited two of the three large seafood eateries in San Leon; the Top Water Grill for lunch, which opened in 1999, and Pier 6 for dinner, barely two years old. Both are good, and both serve deliciously fresh from the Gulf grilled oysters. Today we plan on a late lunch/early dinner at the third and oldest one, in business since 1988, Gilhooley’s.

The Gilhooley’s Experience

Parking the car, I look around and think about my Canadian friend who would say this is a down-market type of place. To me, that is a good thing. Unpretentious is my cup of tea. From the street, individuals not in-the-know would be unaware that they were looking at a restaurant; its ramshackle, higgledy-piggledy assortment of buildings and plastic tents covering one of several outdoor eating areas would give nothing away.

Standing here, we can’t figure out where the entrance is — so we follow our nose through an opening in a weathered wooden fence. Tacked on the fence, at the edge of the opening, is a sign stating: Gilhooley’s – NO Kids – 18+ Don’t even ask! We don’t care who you are.

Lunch at Gilhooley’s

At 3 pm, tables in the restaurant are virtually empty. The few patrons that are here gather around a large bar in the center of the room; a few are seated at a tiny bar outside. We choose a table by a window and begin perusing the extensive menu. I really don’t even need to read it; I know what I want (for an appetizer at least) — grilled oysters with a glass of white wine. Michael wants the same, just not the white wine.

Grilled Oysters

Ordering a dozen grilled oysters to share is a whole $2 less than individual orders of six, so we order twelve. When the Oyster’s Gilhooley arrive, I count seventeen on the serving platter. The shells are deeply charred, and the oysters are encrusted with parmesan. The crackers, lemon and red sauce are superfluous; we set the small tray aside. And after the first bite, we dub the oysters delicious, perhaps the best yet — finishing every last one!

Entrées at Gilhooley’s

We look at the menu one more time to select an entrée. There are salads and sandwiches and po’boys and burgers; Mexican food, Cajun food, seafood, and steaks. There is Southern Fried and Chicken fried — steak, chicken, pork, and a NY Strip. There are in-season seafood specials. I am overwhelmed.

Michael chooses an in-season flounder that is served whole. I choose a half order of fried shrimp and oysters — three each — with a salad and cheesy potatoes. The flounder set before Michael is charred and stuffed with crab. It is fresh, flaky, and perfectly cooked. It is also huge. He gives me a bite before diving in himself.

I thought I was ordering light until my entrée arrives. The salad is big enough for two, and I am served an extra shrimp and an extra oyster. The cheesy potatoes are blanketed with melted cheddar and the portion is generous enough for three people. They are not what I expected, but exactly what the menu said they would be. I share some of my bounty with Michael. All of our seafood is fresher than the morning at dawn — and delicious.

San Leon’s Restaurants

While consuming our entrees, we compare the restaurants in San Leon; Pier 6—upmarket; TopWater Grill—middle-market; Gilhooley’s — down market. They are all so different, each with its own vibe and unique menu. They all have grilled oysters — all good. If we had to rank the three restaurants, they would be: Best, Bestest, and Bestester. That is how evenly matched they are.

Gilhooley’s is the only seafood restaurant of the three that is not on the water; we prefer it due to the combination of the funky, unpretentious vibe — both inside and out — excellent, well-prepared seafood, and value pricing. We would return to all of them, but this would be first on our list.  

Gilhooley’s

• Address: 222 9th St, San Leon, TX 77539
• Website: https://www.gilhooleystx.com/
• Phone: 281-339-3813
• Hours: Monday – Sunday : 11:00am – 10:00pm
• E-Mail: info@gilhooleystx.com

San Leon

In San Leon, oysters are king! It has been called the “Oyster Capital of Texas” not because of its three great seafood restaurants highlighting shellfish, but because it is home to two of the largest oyster companies in the state – Prestige Oysters and Misho’s Oyster Company. Both businesses are family-owned and operated, and both were established more than 30 years ago in San Leon.

A Word about Grilled Oysters

Oysters are not everyone’s cup of tea. For the longest time they were not mine; then I tasted a fried oyster fresh from the sea; next I had Oysters Rockefeller as I sat at a table on Corpus Christi Bay. Both events were lightbulb moments. Another such revelation was sitting in Drago’s Restaurant in New Orleans and eating their original version of grilled oysters.

A friend spoke rapturously about those grilled oysters; we couldn’t understand what the big deal was at all, until one year when we were visiting New Orleans Michael said we had to go to Drago’s. Well, we went that day, and almost everyday afterward for the entire time we were in NOLA.

We have truly learned the meaning of the phrase: Often imitated but never duplicated. Don’t get me wrong, we are very appreciative of being able to sample the numerous imitations, but we also plan another trip to New Orleans, just for Drago’s.