While I try to talk myself into waking, Michael tip-toes into the bedroom, making his way to our closet. When he emerges, our picnic tote rolls behind him. Finally accepting that it is morning, I force myself to get out of bed.

On the Road

At 7 am, we are on the road heading north, convertible top down. Low clouds, gray as smoke, hang overhead and spit tiny droplets of rain on our windshield. It is 75 degrees, 14 degrees warmer than past mornings. So, Michael has the AC cranked down low—or high—whichever way you want to look at it. I adjust my side of the car to warmer and close the vents. The morning air is cool enough for me.

Lyndon B. Johnson State Park and Historic Site

Leaving RR 12, we speed down Highway 290 till we pass Johnson City, and turn into Lyndon B. Johnson State Park & Historic Site by 8 o’clock. Indian blankets and stalks of small sunflowers cover the fields in wild abandon. The abundance of flowers seems so appropriate since Lady Bird Johnson—the driving force behind Texas highways and roadsides being seeded with these and other colorful blooms—was the wife of LBJ. Wildflowers blooming during a Texas June—wonderful!

There is not another human in sight anywhere, and even though the park office seems to be open, Michael ignores it, pasting our “permission slip” to be here—the one he printed at home—onto the driver’s side windshield.

A Picnic Breakfast

Last night Michael informed me that our picnic breakfast wasn’t going to be much, so I am expecting a packaged glazed roll (I found in the pantry) and coffee. However, while I dilly and dally and gaze at my surroundings, he pulls the picnic tote, a small Coleman stove, and a large sack from the trunk of our car. He begins warming rounds of sausage, pan grilling Hawaiian rolls, and scrambling his delicious eggs.

I pour coffee for both of us and notice two fruit cups from Del Monte on the table. One container says Cherry Mixed Fruit with a flag touting the fact that it is a NEW LOOK for FRUIT NATURALS. When I open the plastic cup, I see old fashioned fruit cocktail from a half-century ago. I shake my head in wonder.

Michael dishes up a mound of scrambled eggs onto my plate along with the rest of his “not much” for breakfast, and we enjoy dining in the fresh morning air in virtual seclusion. After slurping the last drop of coffee, he walks off in pursuit of a very bright red bird trying to determine the species. I study the giant oak tree that shelters and shades the table where I sit, working hard to capture its immense size in my camera’s eye. It’s not working.

The Sauer-Beckman Farm

LBJ State Park & Historic Site is home not only to the story of LBJ but also to 1.2 miles of trails that wind through a piece of Texas history, including a living farm museum in the form of WW I-era Sauer-Beck­mann Farmstead, and an 1860s and an 1870s log cabin. There are also herds of buffalo and Texas longhorns and an Olympic sized swimming pool.

However, the big draw for me as far as this park is concerned is the old German-immigrant farmstead. When I visit here, I feel like I am 10-years old again and back on my grandmother’s farm. It’s déjà vu, and it makes my heart sing. Today the farmhouse is not open due to renovations, but the sheep, chickens, and turkeys are still here; the garden is glorious, and the old weathered wood of all the outbuildings still stands. If it weren’t part of a state park, if it was for sale, I might get on my knees and beg Michael to at least consider the possibility.

LBJ National Historical Park

Leaving my childhood memories behind, we walk back to the car and point our noses north toward LBJ’s ranch and the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park. Today the Texas White House is closed due to structural issues, but the LBJ Ranch Self-Driving Tour is available as well as other attractions. Having been here before on guided tours where we were ferried from place to place on a bus and told stories by knowledgeable park rangers, we look forward to traversing this ranch land at our leisure. Just the two of us—inhaling the soft, warm air of a summer morning in Texas. 

Once again, we are virtually the only two people in this world, and it is brilliant! Michael doesn’t even mind stopping in the middle of the road so I can take a picture of my beloved hay-bales.

While we drive, I wish that all of my friends could be here, in the open air, in the aloneness of the moment, enjoying this magnificent land. It is Texas. No wonder LBJ called this the Texas White House and wanted to be here often—I wouldn’t want to leave. But leave, we do.

Driving out of this National Historic Park, we stop on the low bridge crossing the Pedernales River that flows through the Johnson Ranch. We take one last photo to remember a perfect morning in June during the days of Covid-19, happy that the birds and the flowers and the land is still here for us to enjoy. It is almost normal.

Instead of taking 290 all the way into Dripping Springs, Michael takes the very back way home. Passing through Hye he turns right on Rocky Road, and we twist and turn and climb and dip our way into Blanco.

I tell Michael, “This is the perfect road. No yellow stripe. No traffic. Beautiful scenery. Texas.”

LBJ State Park & Historic Site

Park buildings are open from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.

Sauer Beckman Living History Farm

Open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., September – May,  and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. June – August, every day except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day. Individuals and families are welcome to visit at their leisure. Interpretive tours for groups of 15 people or more require reservations. Groups wishing to have a formal tour can find booking information on the park website.

The Nature Trail

The trail, wildlife enclosures of American Bison and Texas Longhorn; farm and park grounds and day use picnic areas are open until dark on a daily basis. There is no overnight camping.

LBJ Ranch

Tours of the LBJ Ranch, located across the Pedernales River, are offered by the National Park Service, and permits are issued at the LBJ State Park Visitor Center. Tours run from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving Day, and Christmas Day.

Other Points of Interest

The Johnson Boyhood Home and the Johnson Settlement are located in nearby Johnson City.

For current park events and information go to www.tpwd.texas.gov/lyndonbjohnson

Reservations

Like all Texas State Parks in the summer of 2020, reservations are required, and wearing masks when visiting the Sauer-Beckman Farm is strongly advised. For more information click on the following link.

https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/lyndon-b-johnson