Lucca Closes Its Doors

It is cold and gray, but hunger beckons.  I have been warned that after the Comics and Games Festival my favorite restaurants will be closed until December. They will be open for Christmas, then close again until March.  This is hard to believe.

I tried arranging a country lunchtime adventure to Borgo a Mozzano (via a thirty-minute train ride) to a restaurant I have read about in Beth Elon’s book, A Culinary Traveller in Tuscany. Calling to confirm that they in fact will be open today, I am told they will be closed until Friday night.  I find that traveling off-season presents its own disappointments. We carry on and make other plans, playing with the idea of a road trip — but where?

Stepping out onto San Andrea all is quiet. Shops are shuttered.  Doors are closed.  Sidewalk restaurants are literally folded up. Everyone has seemingly dissolved into the ancient stone walls.  Even on Via Fillungo there are no lights on in shop windows. We find a tobacco shop that is open in the Piazza Anfiteatro and purchase a deck of cards.  I will beat Michael twice at Gin Rummy tonight.

Lunch still on the agenda, we head to Da Leo. Frequented by locals, we receive a warm welcome as we walk through its doors and head toward the cozy dining area.

Planning A Two Day Adventure in Chianti

Refreshed we head toward Pittore autonoleggio to check on the possibility of a car rental. The cost for two days is 148,00 €.  A GPS — essential — will be extra. We book the car for tomorrow and Wednesday, not yet knowing where we will go.

Michael tells me, “We need a destination.  I don’t want to drive for the sake of driving.”

I have ideas.

A couple we met in Sienna told us about Verrazano Winery and how special it is. Just south of Florence, I think I might be able to persuade Michael that an hour’s drive with an overnight stay would be acceptable.  E-mailing to confirm reservations are available, I get a discouraging—closed for the month of November. They are taking a rest.  I can’t get Chianti out of my mind so I keep looking.  Unsuccessfully.  I Google B&B’s in Chianti. This could take forever, and I only have this afternoon to make and finalize plans.

Disheartened, I turn to booking.com and hit the proverbial jackpot. Villa Vignamaggio is open, rooms are available. There is a winery, a fattoria, they give wine tours.  Happy, lighthearted, thankful, I book a suite.

It is late.  Dark.  We need cash for tomorrow.  We step out onto the deserted street and head to the nearest ATM.  A flying nun — like a ghost — whizzes by us on her bicycle.