It is storming today so Michael and I are both forced into a timeout. I finish washing a few clothes and begin the painful ordeal of packing everything up–impossible to believe, but in two days we leave for Maine.  On one trip down to the laundry, I literally run into my neighbor, Don, from upstairs—the gentleman who owns this building — totally charming and very helpful.  Our conversation veers toward restaurants and food.  He tells me we have to eat at the restaurant in Pointe-à-Callière Museum of Archaeology and History, and we HAVE to book a table on the terrace, and we HAVE to make reservations today for tomorrow.  He will get the phone number and bring it down to me. So, what else can I do but change my plans of visiting the botanical gardens? The museum is down the street, around the corner, in view of the Old Port—our new hang out. I snag the last reservation available on the terrace for 1:30 p.m.

Saying Goodbye to Montreal

July 24, 2014

Today we say au revoir to Montreal and spend our time hanging around the hood.

(Side Note—speaking of the Old Port: Last night’s fireworks put on by the French were the best and most spectacular yet—indescribable— fire spilled from the sky! Some of the bright fiery diamonds lasting forever before they dissipate, and others flaming into the unbelievable shape of a chambered nautilus. The most creative pyrotechnics I have seen!)

Pointe-à-Callière Museum of Archaeology and History

We walk through the underground ruins of centuries worth of Montreal’s history. I find that we are living on almost hallowed ground.  After the Iroquois left and this Island gave birth to what has become the city of Montreal, Rue St. Paul (our street) was among the first streets of the city. Last night I learned the house where we live was built in the seventeen hundreds, originally only one story, and a wreck when Don bought it — it took him thirty years to get approval for adding on the very top floor with the terrace.

Cobblestones from the 1700s vs Cobblestones on Rue St. Paul in 2014

Lunch

Lunch on the Pointe-à-Callière Museum of Archaeology and History terrace doesn’t disappoint, starting with gazpacho drizzled with olive oil and garnished with a twisted strip of fried zucchini.  This first course is followed by gnocchi with Brussels sprouts, butternut squash, and prosciutto in a velvety tomato cream sauce.  The meal ends with rich dark coffee and a sugary churro with a light drizzle of caramel sauce accompanied by a tiny dish of strawberry cream.  For $19.50 each, and for Montreal, it is one the food bargains of the century. And it is sooooo good.

An Afternoon Break in Jacques Cartier Square

Finishing our tour of the museum and not wanting to return home just yet, we head for Jacques Cartier Square and Jardin Nelson (we always ignored it in the past — the lines were too long) where we linger sipping summer drinks and having a mid-afternoon snack of — frites.  Finally, I am served the frites I dream of and remember from Quebec City — thin crisp, and salty.

Les Filles du Roy

We eat our way through Quebec today.  Tonight we dine at a tiny elegant restaurant around the corner from our house, Les Filles du Roy. Serene.  Beautiful. Old world. More food more wine.  Lobster bisque covered with a brown crusty dome of puff pastry, rack of lamb with a port and fig sauce,  crème brûlée — one more time.  Too much food.   Too much wine.  We should weigh five hundred pounds each, but Michael has lost seven, and I have stayed the same.

Leaving Montreal

July 25, 2014

It is a challenge leaving Montreal, there is construction everywhere (apparently there are two seasons in Montreal–winter and construction), we take a wrong turn, and it takes our GPS a while to figure things out.  Finally, we are on our way to Monhegan Island via Rockland and Port Clyde.