I’m thinking about cooking something — wonderful, maybe, maybe not — but Michael walks into the kitchen and says, “Why don’t we go to San Antonio for the night and eat at Signature?”
Now, why didn’t I think of that?
I pick up my phone and click on the Open Table app.
Signature Restaurant
On this Sunday night, we are the second couple to arrive at the restaurant. My booking was so last minute my choice was 5:45 p.m. or waiting till 9 p.m. Never fond of the European time clock when it comes to having dinner, I chose early rather than late.
The restaurant is lovely. Understated. Casually elegant. Our table for two is by a huge plate glass window overlooking the grounds of La Cantera Resort & Spa. The bottom of my menu has a one-line note from Chef Andrew Weissman, “Welcome to Signature, a culinary love letter to my hometown.”
I discover that Andrew Weissman was born and raised in San Antonio and attended the Culinary Institute of America, working at top restaurants in Connecticut, France, and Manhattan. Eventually, he found himself returning to his hometown and shaking up the culinary scene, opening many notable restaurants, one of which is the relatively new Signature.
My thoughts wander off to the future. His other restaurants — The Luxury, Sip Brew Bar & Eatery, Big’z Burger Joint, Moshe’s Golden Falafel — sound intriguing. I’m thinking that we must plan another trip soon.
The Wine
But today I have to concentrate on the wine list. Michael always hands it off to me. I get the praise and the blame. I need to try and choose wisely.
Perusing the extensive list of vino page by page, I continually run into one French appellation after another. I almost become discouraged. I know little to nothing of French wines and winemakers and vineyards. But then I discover an old friend — Turley from Paso Robles. They have a Cinsault available. As a red it’s new to me–I am only familiar with this grape in its Rosé form. Our very attentive server gives me his nod of approval as we discuss Turley wines in general. I learn this Cinsault comes from the oldest vineyard of its kind in the country—perhaps even beyond. Which means the vines are gnarly and probably head-trained. The wine promises to be light-bodied and extremely well balanced.
With my first sip I taste cherries. It’s delicious. Michael doesn’t love it quite as much as I do—he prefers in your face, hit yourself over the head wines that are deep dark and heavy. The wine glasses have the thinnest stems I’ve ever held. I think I need them. I snap a picture of the name etched on the footed portion.
The Food
Beginnings
Before I can decide on exactly what I want to eat, we are presented with an Amuse Bouche. The tiniest, crispest most delicious bite in the world—an eggplant salad on a fried wonton square. I tell our server I’d like an entire plate—he lets me know that it can probably be arranged. It takes an extreme act of willpower not to tell him to go ahead and do just that.
I begin with the La Rêve Onion Tart while Michael chooses Timbales & Escargots. My onion tart is deliciously decadent. The goat cheese mousse spilling like a thick white river onto the plate when I cut into the flaky crust which is crowned with a mound of golden brown slivers of onion that are cooked for 4 hours. The three caramelized onion petals that accompany the tart are an added treat, as are the needle-thin artfully placed streaks of x.o. balsamic reduction.
The tart is tiny but rich—totally filling. We could pay the bill and leave and I’d be a happy girl. However, our server suggests we share a salad. Of the two on offer we choose a Caesar—always a favorite. This one is crisp and tart, loaded with garlic and anchovy flavor and garnished with a thin parmesan tuile.
Immediately after my salad plate is whisked away, a blackberry sorbet—a very refreshing palate cleanser — is set before me. This is my kind of place.
The Entree
Michael would tell the world I am into crisp. Textures are high on the list of importance in my book. I love the Yin and Yang effect of sweet and salty, crisp and creamy. Maybe that’s why I love breakfast—soft eggs, salty bacon, crisp toast, sweet preserves.
But I digress.
When our server tells me the special of the day is crispy skinned salmon on a plate of soft polenta with an accent of velvety red pepper sauce, I place my menu on the table.
The entrée before me is perfection. I want to take lessons on how to achieve this savory salty crispness. The salmon is flawless in its execution. The polenta and the sauce are a culinary dream.
Sweet Endings
When our server begins talking about dessert, we reluctantly demur. I couldn’t hold another bite. I’m full to the brim. But, suddenly he appears with a plate of complimentary petit fours. I close my eyes to temptation. Then I think, maybe just one. Perhaps the tiniest of French Almond Macarons—barely a nibble. A sweet piece of pistachio heaven.
Pushing ourselves away from the table two hours after our arrival, I’m extremely glad Chef Andrew Weissman wrote a culinary love letter to San Antonio, and that I was able to read a line. I know I want to read more.
Signature Restaurant
16401 La Cantera Pkwy
San Antonio, TX 78256
210-247-0176
Hours
Signature Hour: Tuesday – Friday from 4:30 PM – 6 PM
Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday from 5:30 PM – 10 PM
Sunday Brunch: 10:30 AM – 2 PM
Sunday Dinner: 5:30 PM – 9 PM
Reservations Highly Recommended and may be made through Open Table
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