The Menger Hotel

San Antonio is getting to be a habit, and when an opportunity falls into our lap to visit, we never say no. Today our hotel of choice is The historic Menger Hotel, its location in the heart of San Antonio’s distant past is extremely apropos since we are here for a Texas Historical Symposium. Even with the threat of heavy downpours, I am happy, and walking down the long hallway from the parking garage valet service leading to the lobby I feel like it is Old Home Week. The fabric of the unique and charming Menger Hotel is woven into decades of my own personal memories.

Looking at Michael I say, “I love this hotel.”

“I know,” he replies.

Checking-in, the hotel clerk informs us that our room is in the historic section of the hotel on the 4^th floor. As she wishes us a good day, the young woman warns us to watch out for the step up into the bathroom, “…because you are in the old section. Be careful.”

Originally built in 1859, I believe our fourth story addition on top of the original two-story structure was added almost 20 years later. I try to wrap my head around these dates. This wonderful old hotel was built less than 25 years after the infamous Battle of the Alamo when San Antonio was virtually a wild frontier. It is unimaginable to me. But I try to imagine it anyway. At what time did it turn elegant–I wonder.

Our Home Away from Home

Opening the door to our room, an air of cozy, quaint, quiet and charming greets us. Not luxurious and expansive, this feels like a guest room in a friend’s house. Deep lavender walls, gilt-framed botanical prints, floor to ceiling draperies with sheer panels softening the light, all make me feel like I am someplace unique in the world of hotels. The king size bed is laden with five sleeping pillows, and housekeeping quickly honors my request for extra blankets. There are two small wingback chairs as well as a writing desk and a flat-screen TV. Along with being cozy, it is friendly–unpretentious.

The closet is tiny but adequate and we are only going to be here for four nights. I think it will do. And the small bathroom does have a step up, but surprisingly there is adequate space for all my stuff, although I will have to be a wee bit creative to hide my mess. Turning around, I exit, stepping down. I make several mental notes to step up, step up, step up. Hopefully, that will suffice.

King’s X Toy Soldiers

I make quick work of unpacking, folding and hanging clothes and hiding our toiletries in the bathroom. Within minutes we are ready to step outside and explore, our first stop being the King’s X Toy Soldiers store off the Menger Hotel’s lobby.

You don’t even need to be a kid to love this store. It is fascinating, and all of the detailed dioramas of past battles can occupy a fanciful mind for hours on end, especially the Battle of the Alamo. I want to buy the whole thing, but with prices ranging from $31 to $179 for each piece, and a Mexican army totaling 2,000, and total Texans close to 200, I’m afraid we’d have to mortgage our house and sell both our adult children to afford it. Stepping out of temptation’s way we settle for a walk along the river.

Mad Dogs British Pub

For reasons I can’t fathom, we haven’t eaten a thing all day long, and our dinner reservations are not till 7 p.m. this evening. Once on the San Antonio Riverwalk, we head for Mad Dogs British Pub. Michael is thinking Scotch Eggs and beer, I am thinking wine and something lighter. Well, “light” doesn’t exist in Mad Dogs vocabulary, so we settle for a surprise—The Chef’s Chip of the Day—at only $6.95 how much damage can a chip dish for two do?

A lot, I discover.

Sitting at a shady table on the outdoor patio we sip our cocktails and fight over every bite of this deliciously decadent snack. It is a Texas chef’s interpretation of a British chef’s interpretation of the Canadian dish, Poutine. And if you have never heard of it, Poutine is a plate of French fries drowning in gravy with a handful of cheese curds scattered on top—even McDonald’s serves them in Quebec! But I think this is better! English style thick chips blanketed with melted cheese, swimming in a savory sauce spiked with just the righ amount of jalapenos and studded with thick chunks of salty bacon. A calorie-laden indulgence to be sure, but worth every single one I consume. Maybe we are just hungry, but I don’t think so.

Lingering, talking, enjoying the afternoon, our drinks take their toll and we decide a quick nap is just the thing we need. Climbing up from the tree-shaded river out onto the streets of downtown San Antonio, we are greeted with dark skies and ominous clouds. A portent of things to come. But–the colors are striking and the clouds are humbling in their grandeur. I’m still happy.

A Note on the Menger Hotel

The Menger Hotel is a part of Stash Hotel Rewards, an American company that produces a loyalty rewards program for a network of nearly 200 independent unique hotels in the US, Panama, and the Caribbean. The best part of finding out about this program as far as I am concerned is not the rewards but discovering the location of unique hotels.

The price of rooms at the Menger have a wide range of pricing, and on their website, you will see the same room at different prices on different days. Along with their own special offerings, you can also find reasonable rates at outside booking sites on the Internet. Rooms are not “standard” many are unique in size and furnishings–I like that. Be aware that rooms with windows bordering streets may be noisy due to late night revelers. I have never minded this (not too much anyway), it reminds me of Europe and life on the streets. If it bothers you, ask for a quiet room when making reservations.

Valet parking, which is a necessity if you are driving, is published at $28 a day for guests. Our rates were substantially less because we were part of a group attending the Texas Historical Symposium.

If you like old, if you like unique, if you can live without expansive rooms in the lap of luxury (you can have those but there might be a hefty price tag) you will love the Menger.