Traversing the intricacies of the York train terminal gives me a stomachache. Our train is due to depart on Platform 5, but when we arrive all we see is 5A and 5B. I take the fun out of everything by asking questions…and then I question the information given to us by the resident attendant.  I ask a fellow passenger. We walk back to the place where we were told to stand. Michael shakes his head and rolls his eyes, putting up with my foibles. I point out that I am not the only one who is confused.

I thought I’d outsmarted the weather. I should have learned by now that is just not possible.  When I booked this three night Edinburgh adventure Weather Bug promised me that it would be warm and wonderful from today through Sunday. I packed accordingly, leaving my heaviest sweater in York.

Exiting the Waverley Train Station which is hidden under the colors of autumn in the deep valley beneath Edinburgh castle, we roll our suitcases behind us while the wind swirls and chills and blows. The soulful tune of a bagpiper piping curls upward along with the wind. Listening to the pipes, cringing at my inability to pack correctly, all I do is wonder at which store along Princess Street I can buy a warm and wonderful sweater to ward off the weather that is.

Checking into the understated elegance of The Principal Hotel fronting Charlotte Square we upgrade to a suite because we can, and it’s a steal of a deal. It is akin to being lucky enough to upgrade to first class when I was a frequent flyer. The room is gracious and spacious, layered with velvets and wools and marble and wood. Perfectly color coordinated with a contemporary flair, it feels like a friend’s guest suite in their very gracious home rather than a hotel.

I inspect the bed, the pillows the chairs and the couch, setting up our computer at one of the two desks available. I walk in the shower, big enough for a small family, and tell Michael I would like to take it home with me.  He agrees it’s nice, but I think his eyes are rolling up past his eyebrows.

Taking up residence on the large comfortable bed, propped against three overstuffed fluffy pillows, I scroll through my phone looking for nourishment—it is 2 p.m. and we have not eaten a bite. My choices are Mexican and Spanish and Indian and French and Italian and…and I wonder once again, as I did that first day in York; where am I, really?

We leave the hotel, turning left under our third floor bedroom window and proceed down Rose Street, a pedestrian thoroughfare also known as the Pub Crawl, choosing to have a light snack at Shoolypeg, a warm and welcoming tiny pub.

Emerging from the cozy interior, we are welcomed with a shower of sunshine. The castle looms above us, towering over Edinburgh and the surrounding landscape. We turn our feet toward Waverly Station, where at the visitor information center which borders the entrance to the train station, Michael purchases tickets for two to the royal group attractions. Included in our two day pass is the ability to hop on and hop off a tour bus for a period of 48 hours. We are hoping the bus pass will give us an easier way up to the castle than that of walking to the summit. I can already feel the strain my leg muscles.

We wander through old town along time worn streets filled with shops and pubs and hotels. And people. Always, always, tons and tons of people. Escaping  the hordes we descend into Princess Park, find an empty bench and sit in the sun listening to the wail of bagpipes speak of Amazing Grace.

Dinner is at Jamie’s (Oliver) Italian. We have to try something from the famed British Naked Chef even if the cuisine isn’t English, and besides, Edinburgh is very cosmopolitan, seemingly belonging to the world not just Britain. Reviews are mixed on Jamie’s, but seated at our table in the spacious grand old dining room I promise myself an open mind.

Confronted with an array of possibilities, I choose the three course meal deal for a little under £20. Michael goes the à la carte route. The starter of handmade pasta served in a black truffle butter with aged Parmesan, and additional shaved black truffle is delicious, which makes the entree of breaded pork escalope with cherry tomato salad and crumbled feta a bit disappointing due to its lack of seasoning. However, if I can manage the perfect bite—a bit of pork, tomato and feta—it is all good.

The list of seven desserts are mostly made of, infused with, or garnished with chocolate. I am attracted to the one that isn’t. Claiming to be Jamie’s favorite, it is an Italian classic which consists of a blueberry studded olive oil cake draped with softly whipped cream, drizzled with golden honey and garnished with fragrant orange zest.

In the middle of the night I am woken by the loud whisper of a building wind and the spatter of raindrops hitting the large glass domed skylight that graces the ceiling above our bed. Groaning with dismay I pull the covers higher. Tighter.

A Perfect Place to Stay

The Principal Charlotte Square consists of seven inter-connecting Georgian townhouses in the heart of the New Town, a UNESCO world heritage site.It is more than lovely—it is delightful.

 

The Royal Edinburgh Ticket

• Unlimited travel on board all of Edinburgh Bus Tours’ city tours
• Fast track admission to Edinburgh Castle, The Royal Yacht Britannia and Palace of Holyroodhouse
• A cheaper way to see Edinburgh’s Royal highlights – the cost of an adult Royal Edinburgh Ticket offers a saving of over 20%*