As we sit and sip and chomp, we discover that we have landed in the midst of a large group of pilgrims—although pilgrims are not what they resemble—taking a break from their journey as they walk the Camino Santiago. Backpacks and walking sticks are scattered about. Everyone at this restaurant is a pilgrim except us, and the table next to us which is full of locals. The sign out front for the hostel within is in five different languages.

A Weekend Adventure

While in Olite, Michael entertained himself reading a book about Paradors of Spain. He described one at the edge of the sea inside an old fort. I paid little attention, knowing Spain was large and had lots of coastline. But then I found out this particular Parador was in Galacia — almost next door — and so I thought, we can do that.

After five days the sun is shining, and today I pack hurriedly for our two-night stay in Baiona, promising Michael I will be ready by 9 or 10 o’clock. My mistake was in saying 9 o’clock. I get the evil eye for an hour while I try to get everything together. We arrive in the underground garage to retrieve our car before 10:00 a.m.

I think, on time…Michael thinks, an hour late!

The four-and-a-half hour drive lengthens as we follow a parade of tractors going oh so s – l – o – w. It lengthens further when our TomTom gets totally confused while we drive down a new highway, following signs to Santiago de Compostela. Our car looks like a snail leaving tracks on the TomTom screen, weaving back and forth on open land — trailing dashes behind it. I panic thinking we are going the wrong way when I know we cannot be. Michael refuses to turn around.

Luckily Michael refuses to turn around.

Stopping for Lunch

Looking for a rest stop and a restaurant we may as well be in the desert. The tiny restaurantes we do see are closed—too early for the Spanish mid-day meal. Finally, Michael sees a restaurant with parking space, outdoor tables and people sitting at them. We agree to eat light—ordering sangria, dos deluxe hamburgesas and papas fritas. Light? No. Delicious? Yes! This hamburger may be one of the best I have ever eaten. Unbelievable! Lettuce. Thinly sliced tomato. Ultra-thin piece of hamburger meat. Cheese. Bacon, sliced thick. Iberian Jamon, sliced thick. A fried egg. All stuffed between a perfect bun. We don’t need dinner.

The Pilgrims

We continue on our journey and the pilgrims continue on theirs. It doesn’t look fun, walking along the highway, crossing over, walking through the woods only to cross back over the highway again, walking alongside in a ditch. Up so many hills, along so many ditches, but they are near the end — surely the beginning must be better. But then I guess being a pilgrim, you aren’t looking for the easy route.

This is why we turn south and continue our journey to Baiona, and the sea and ironed sheets and good wine.

I am no pilgrim.

Pilgrims on the Camino Santiago

“The way of St. James” is a pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia (northwestern Spain). The Camino was one of the most important pilgrimage routes during medieval times. Some of the earliest records indicate that the route has been traveled since around the 8th century! It is difficult to define where exactly the Camino starts, as pilgrims used to start their journey from their own home and over the years, different Camino ways have emerged.